Bengali

11:17 AM

Enchor-er Tarkari (Raw Jackfruit Curry)



I like to cook with locally and seasonally available vegetables for which I prefer to visit the wholesale market near to our place. This market is known as Madiwala market and on weekends you will get very fresh seasonal fruits and vegetables at a cheaper rate. The kind of shopaholic I am any trip that include buying and bargaining attracts me. This Sunday I found this amazingly tender Raw Jackfruit there. Raw jackfruit or Enchor is a very famous and popular dish in Bengal. This is a summer delicacy as these are available only during February-March. After that the fruits start to ripen and we get a different variety of Delicious fruit called Kanthal (jackfruit). Kanthal has a very strong smell for which I believe this is something of an acquired taste whereas Enchor is more easily acceptable as a vegetable.

Kanthal is somewhat laxative, so have to be eaten in moderation. In our house a plate of Kanthal is always accompanied by a cup of milk, as it helps in digesting the kanthal. After eating Kanthal we don’t throw away the seeds, these also are used as vegetable, not in itself but with other vegetables like in chachori (vegetable medleys) or mixed vegetables etc. Even dry roasted and de-skinned seeds taste like nuts.

Enchor is quite a vegetarian delight as cooked with onion and garlic it almost taste like dry goat meat dish that is why this vegetable is also known as ‘Gaach Pantha’ or Tree Goat. During any summer party or get together Enchorer er Tarkari is a must have dish.

A fruit laden Jackfruit tree in the summer looks quite impressive. The tree itself is huge and the fruits are borne allover the tree from the trunk to the brunches. In Santiniketan we used the leaves, which are very thick and leathery in texture to make flower ornaments for our functions. For that we used to cut the leaves in different shapes and then stitched Tagar kuri (Frangipani buds), button flower and Rangan (Ixora flower) to make various pattern. I am attaching a cropped version of my old photograph just to give you some idea. Please don’t mind the low resolution.

Enough discussion about Enchor, now its time for the recipe.
Enchor-er Tarkari


Ingredients:

One small Enchor: cut in small pieces
Cutting Enchor could be a pain. First you need to discard the skin and the inner spine and then cut them in chunks. Rub your knife and hands with some mustard oil to avoid the accumulation of its copious gummy latex.
2 medium potatoes: cut in cubes
1 big tomato

For the Masala:
1 big onion paste
1 and ½ teaspoon ginger garlic paste
1 teaspoon turmeric powder
1 and ½ teaspoon chili powder
½ teaspoon garam masala powder
1 big bay leaf
1 piece cinnamon
1-teaspoon black pepper: coarsely ground
3 pieces cloves
Salt to taste
4-teaspoon oil

Method:
First boil the Enchor chunks in lightly salted water with ½ teaspoon turmeric until tender.

Heat 1-teaspoon oil in a kadhai and lightly fry the potatoes with salt till light brown in colour. Keep them aside.

Again heat 3-teaspoon oil and put the bay leaf, clove, Pepper and cinnamon. When they start to sputter add the onion paste, turmeric, salt and chili powder. Fry on a low heat. When the onion is half done add the ginger garlic paste and again fry on low flame till oil separates at the sides. Now put the chopped tomato, mix well and cover. After 5 minutes check if the tomato is cooked. Mix everything together with your spatula.

At this point add the boiled Enchor and potatoes. Give everything a good stir so that the veggies are coated with the fried spices. Cover and let it absorb the aroma for 2 minutes. Add hot water to it, check the seasoning, cover and let it cook till the Enchor is soft.

Once the water evaporates, sprinkle the garam masala powder and serve with steamed rice.

Bengali

Calcutta Street Food 1: Phulkopi’r Singara (Cauliflower Samosa)

8:54 AM





I loved all the books of Jhumpa lahiri, especially the Namesake. I can very easily identify with the loneliness and longing for home of Ashima. Though am not as far like her but still I miss the warmth and friendliness of my neighbors, the loud adda (chat) from one window to the other and the familiar foods available in every lane in our town. Just like her I also sometimes try to recreate the taste and aroma of our very own street foods just to feel at home. But no matter how you try to recreate it, getting the same taste at home is never possible. You always miss on something. My father says it’s the dust on the roads and the low quality oil that gives it the unique taste. However, nothing could be compared with a plate of Mughlai Paratha or a trip to your local
Fuchka (Panipuri) vendor for that sweet n sour taste and bursting in mouth sensation.

Though every town has its unique collection of street foods but Calcutta’s street food variety knows no boundary. Ranging from their very own Chop, Singara, varieties of Roll, Mishti (sweets) to Chinese Chowmein, Chili chicken, Maharastrian Paobhaji, Southindian Idli, Dosa, Gujrati Dhokla, Mughlai Paratha, Tibetan momo with steaming hot soups, Western burgers and chips … it specializes in every genre of food available in the whole world. From full meals to simple snacks to quick refreshments, this city has an amazing diversity. A true Calcuttan can name all the specialized places of each and every street delicacy. Like best Phulkopi’r singara (cauliflower samosa) is available at Mrityunjoy in Lansdown, best kobiraji cutlet is only made at Regent in S N Banerjee road, Nizam serves one of the best double egg chicken roll, to eat best chicken rezala one has to head to Shabbir in C R avenue, Anadi cabin at S N banerjee road serves the best Mughlai paratha, Mishti Doi is best available at Ganguram and the list is endless. Bengal and Bengalis have a historical love affair with their street foods.
I was known as a chatori (who likes to eat
chaat) among friends. Cause I can have chaat for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Though in my opinion Delhi serves the best chaat in the whole world but Calcutta comes as a close contender. My chandni chowkwali (a place in Delhi) friend once told me that the word chaat has actually evolved from the Hindi word chaatna (licking) cause these have such a tangy, pungent and spicy mix of spices that it will leave you to ask for more.The saga of Calcutta street food does not end here. This is only the beginning.

Phulkopi’r Singara (Samosa with cauliflower stuffing).
This is a winter delicacy as formally Gobi or cauliflower is a winter vegetable. Though these days’ cauliflowers are available through out the year but still this snack is specially made during the winter months.

Ingredients: for 6 singara
For the shell: 1/2 small cup Flour (Maida)
1/3 cup: wheat flour (Atta)
1/2 teaspoon: Onion seed or kalounji
A pinch of soda bi carb
2 tablespoon: vegetable oil
Salt as per taste

For the filling: 2 cups of cauliflower florets, cut in small pieces
1 medium potato
1 medium onion: chopped
1 teaspoon ginger paste

A handful of dry roasted peanuts
2 green chilies: chopped
1 teaspoon: coriander powder
1 teaspoon: cumin seeds
½ teaspoon: turmeric powder
½ teaspoon: red chili powder
2-tablespoon oil
1/3 of a small lemon
Salt as per taste
.

Method:
For the shell: mix the salt, flour, wheat flour and soda bi carb in a big bowl or plate. Make a well in the center and add the oil. Using little bit water at a time make a firm dough. Knead the dough until smooth. Cover in plastic wrap and set aside at room temperature for 30 minutes.

In the meantime make the filling. Boil the potato and steam the cauliflower. Heat oil in a pan and put the cumin seeds and chopped green chilies. Add the onion and ginger paste and fry till the aroma comes. Add in all the dry spices and fry for another couple of minutes. Finally mix the cauliflower and the cubed potatoes. Cover and let it absorb the entire spice aroma, put 2-tablespoon water, mix well and again cover. After 5 minutes add the peanuts and fry for some more time. Mix in the lemon juice and switch the heat off. The filling would be dry. Let it cool completely before stuffing.

Divide the dough in three equal pieces. Make each piece into a ball and roll out thinly. Divide this circle into two equal pieces with a knife. Brush the straight edge with water and fold so that a cone shape is made. Hold the cone in your hand and fill in the cauliflower mixture. Now using some more water again dampen the edges and press to seal the top of the cone.

Frying: Heat oil in a heavy bottomed pan. Deep-fry the singara on a low flame until crisp and brown. Take out and drain the excess oil on tissue paper. Serve hot with sauce. We enjoyed our Singara with some hot masala tea.





Weekend Evening Snacks: Phulkopi'r Singara and Masala Tea

Bengali

Dudh Puli Pithe

8:23 AM




Dudhpuli or puli pithe is another famous pithe which are prepared on the eve of Poush Sankranti. This pithe has an outer shell or the khol made with rice flour and is filled with sweet stuffing made with coconut and sugar. Then these dumplings are either boiled in thickened milk sweetened with jaggery or steamed and eaten with liquid date palm jaggery. The commonly found shape is of the half moon shape (like North Indian gujia) or the crescent shape, but one can do a lot of experiment with the shape and size. We generally give it three shapes the normal half moon/crescent, the sun shape and the Singara/ Samosa or triangle shape.

Bengali

Poush Parbon er Pithe: Nalen gurer Patishapta

11:27 AM





It is a well-known fact that we Bengalis are crazy for our mishti or sweets. Not only we love to eat sweets but we love to make sweets too and one such kind of festival when we crave for homemade sweets is called Poush sankranti. Poush sankranti or Poush parbon is observed on the auspicious day of Makara sankranti or the last day of Bengali month Poush. Not only in Bengal but all over India this day is regarded as a very special day and various traditions are followed. Like in south India they celebrate Pongal, in Punjab it is celebrated as Lohri, in Bengal people gather at the holy place of Gangasagar where the river Ganges meets the Bay of Bengal to take a dip in the morning. It is believed that by doing so one can get rid of all sins.

Memoir

11:50 AM


Spring is here…the colours from my window.
Again the time of the year has come when I long for being with my family in Santiniketan…those new green leaves, the clear sky, the green fields, the murram roads towards the ashrama, the bright yellow of Palash (Butea monosperma) flowers, the ‘adda’ (chatting) sessions under the shadows of the trees in front of the girls hostel, the music in the air, the sudden burst of laughter in the rehearsal rooms, the roadsides abiir (gulal/ dry colours) vendors and the tired us after a daylong dance practice for Basantotsav,…I miss those days and I want to go home.
This Friday afternoon when I was having my lazy lonely lunch on the drawing room couch and was daydreaming of those good old collage days I suddenly looked through my window and saw a riot of soft green colours. The tree besides my gate has started having new leaves…soft, tender and shiny. It made my day, gave me a feeling of being close to something that I cherish most.

Popular Posts